We are in the mountains (thus the lack of cell service and the post-facto post). Today featured the first real climbing of the trip, though nothing compared to tomorrow, when I hit two major passes; the second, Washington Pass, is now the highest of the trip, since Logan Pass in Glacier is closed through at least the beginning of July due to snow. I discovered today that when I am climbing on a consistent but manageable grade I repeat to myself ”slow and steady slow and steady slow and steady.” When the grade grows severe I am reduced to mumbling ”okay okay okay okay.” Less instructive, more coping.
North Cascades National Park is gorgeous. It is the most beautiful place I have ridden, hands down. I had a life-affirming tailwind, and the weather was ideal, and really it was an excellent day of riding.
I went through a tunnel! It was a little scary, but you press a button before entering that tells cars there’s a bike in there. And it is presumably better than going over the thing they tunneled through.
Every road-side stop was eye-popping, with rushing green river against snow-capped peaks. I luxuriated, knowing I had only 38 miles to cover, and even with my lazy 10 a.m. departure I got to the campground by 3:30.
Colonial Creek Campground, which was fully booked when I tried to reserve a site a few weeks ago, does indeed have a hiker/biker site, though they had trouble remembering which site it was, since I am—the ranger told me—their first cyclist of the season! And it was free! After stashing everything in the bear safe, I went for a hike on Thunder Creek Trail. Because why not follow up riding with hiking?
Fell asleep while reading around 8:30 (not the fault of my book, Courtroom 302, which is a so-far-fascinating examination of the Cook County criminal justice system.
roadside viewsthis gas station bathroom mirror was not for mehappy💚the views made up for wearing plastic bags on my feet all day See what I mean?so that’s coming quietest stretch of road I’ve been on (volume up)that’s me!
Today was much drier and, in related news, much better. The rain stopped around 2 a.m., and I was able to pack up under a picnic shelter this morning. After having dried all my clothing under the bathroom hand dryer (a godsend!) last night, I dried each piece of the tent this morning. Such a relief not to have to pack and carry a wet tent. And then it didn’t really even rain! There were occasional showers, but it was sunny and in the high 60s much of the day—perfect riding weather. Everything but my socks and shoes got dry. After weighing the options, I went with bare feet in wet shoes—seemed like the best shot for the scant sun to dry them. Such are the choices on bike tour.
The riding was beautiful. Some real climbs and descents (my device says I hit 40 mph!) and a lot of riding along rivers, first the North Fork Stillaguamish then the Sauk. Tonight’s campground, Howard Miller Steelhead Park, is on the Skagit.
The campground! When I arrived, the camp host told me the tent sites are flooding, and they’d best put me in “the Adirondacks,” which turns out to be a three-sided shelter with bunk beds, a covered picnic table, ample electric, and water. And there’s WiFi! This is a posher setup than I could have dreamed of, and I am feeling pretty good. Off for a shower, and then a relaxed evening in the bunkhouse with my Kindle .
well okaynice ridingthe Sauk Riverliving the dream
First day! It rained literally all day (and continues to rain and will continue to rain), so I don’t have much in the way of pictures. But I spent most of the second half of the day on an excellent trail, and that was cool. I also enjoyed dodging slugs (is it a slug or a branch!?) on the road, a fun rainy-times riding game. They are fat and plenty out here. Now I’m damply ensconced in my tent following a lively session of bathroom hand dryer clothes drying. Gonna nod off to the sound of rain on the tent and try not to focus on wet morning logistics.
dig this bridgethe Centennial Trail doth provide not under the bridge was wetter
One day out. I am definitely feeling some butterflies. The train trip was wonderful, and I spent most of it watching a preview of my ride go by, only faster, comfortably, and in reverse. I’ve spent three days here outside Seattle introducing my legs to hills, dealing with device troubles, and seeing friends. I have all my snacks. After a fully-loaded test ride this afternoon, I am, with the exception of terrible nerves about these mountains, ready.
leaving Chicagojust west of Williston, NDthe plains of eastern Montanathe mountains of western MontanaWenatchee, WAThe Snoqualmie Valley Trail is probably the loveliest trail I have ever ridden.can I ride hills?can I ride hills with my house on my bike?
Well, it looks like this wild adventure is really happening: Bar Harbor or bust! On Saturday I am Seattle-bound on Amtrak, having indulged in a sleeper car for the 46-hour ride. I’m taking Jajah’s advice and bringing along fairy lights for ambience (“it’s beautiful! we should get married here!”) so I can make the magical most of the rail experience. I’ll spend a couple of days in Seattle with friends and then head out on June 9.
This is likely the longest post I’ll make, because I’m drafting it on the computer, a luxury my clumsy little fingers are forgoing this summer. I expect mostly to post photos, with whatever commentary I have the energy and wit for and that phone keypads and auto-correct don’t enrage me into abandoning. I have more tech than I’ve ever carried before: my customary Kindle and phone (books and a flip phone on first tour in 2010!) are supplemented with a Garmin satellite tracker and a Wahoo ELEMNT. No, I don’t know why they spell it that silly way. It’s all astonishingly small and clever, but it requires some patience, and that is–to employ an obnoxious bit of corporate buzzspeak–my growing edge.
Speaking of things I am bringing. A pleasant surprise is that even going solo and through colder weather, I didn’t have to add any bags to my usual pack.
all my items (plus bike and helmet) for the next 12 weeks
That’s it: rear panniers, a trunk rack bag, and a bear vault (to be sent home once I hit the plains), plus my top-tube bag and a bar-top feed bag that’s mostly for my phone and a map. I added a stove because Joyce usually carries it; rain pants and booties and a lightweight down jacket because I’ll be in the Northern Cascades in early summer; a bear vault and bear spray because same; a notebook; a pair of off-bike pants-shorts conversions; and a hand pump. I eliminated a few items of clothing, including all but one pair of padded shorts and my fire-starter kit because who am I kidding I never make fires on bike tour. I’ve been practicing padding-free after Joyce recommended it last summer, and so far so good. Somehow it all fits. WHAT AM I FORGETTING?!
I’m going to miss a lot of people and things, the top three being Andrew, Max, and my shower. The first two are pictured below.
what’s not to miss?
I’ll miss friends and events, visits with family, the brief and glorious Chicago summer, my backyard honeysuckle and Concord grapes and yellow roses, air conditioning. My stomach does a slow flip every time I think about the 13 states (Washington, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine!), two mountain ranges, and 4,200 miles between beginning and end. But I’m also very excited to see and smell and hear the country at bicycle speed; to see what my body and brain can do when challenged; to eat every snack; to wake up outside; to lose the rhythm of the workweek; to take no shower for granted; to take pictures and write postcards and feel lonely and content and free.
Several people have asked if I’ll be listening to music and podcasts, and so far the plan is no. I don’t generally listen to things on my bike, and I feel fairly confident I won’t get bored with the inside of my head. But there’ll be lots of hours and days, and I have been wrong before (I am told), so please drop recommendations for books and podcasts in the comments, and send me any up-tempo playlists on Spotify via text, email, or below.
Thanks for following along, and please comment liberally. I won’t be getting a lot of social input, so a little will go a long way! And thank you to Andrew for making this lovely space for me to share the trip with y’all.
